those must be my feet that I'm smelling... as I sit in the houston airport after the whirlwind US 72-hour tour. Nobody told me it was hailing and snowing last Sunday, so of course I pack only my backpack with a couple pair of boardshorts, sandals, and the only long-sleeve thing I own that John Cheshire just gave me. I went to Burlington Vermont to meet the founder, CEO, and directors of the JDK design studio. Those guys are DOPE. not to mention some of the sickest artists you'll meet. JDK does the branding for everyone from Burton to Patagonia, MTV to Cartoon Network, Microsoft X-Box to Virgin Mobile, you name it, they either did it or know the guys that did. And why would JDK even consider helping me with Witch's Rock Surf Camp in tiny Tamarindo? I don't know, but I'm stoked. It would have never happened if it weren't for my friend Yana. Yeah, a lame trip in that I spent more time traveling than on the ground, and that I'm missing insane waves back home, but totally worth it.

Monday night before I left I got two new Stewart longboards. I'm keeping one and putting the other, along with my Walden, in the rental pool. They are sweet. I'm going to take some pics and some video I shot of myself with Bill Stewart, a really cool guy by the way. Definitely has that SoCal vibe.

I don't want to start any rumors here, but there's a big boat in the future of WRSC. OK, I guess I did start a rumor.

Biodiesel reactor = taking used cooking oil, processing it into diesel. I'm having a system built at the surf camp this month, finally. Local Tama companies like FT's, the Cala Luna, and the Barcelo Resort in Langosta have already signed up for the oil trade system we're setting up. Just another step in the right direction I guess. Pretty soon the vans will be Nacho Powered. I like the ring of that.

Work was really hard last month, as I realized after May flew by. So has being a dad, but ever so rewarding. I miss my kids right now. Otis is growing up really quickly, its just insane. Happy is too. wow.

I'm going on a surf tour to the southern zone of Costa Rica and deep into Panama in 6 days, I'll be gone for 10. When I get back the JDK crew will be at the camp along with some friends, and I'm finally going to get that surf shop laid out.

Finally some waves coming in. Finally feels like summer.

I'm always happy to get back home after a trip, today is no exception.

I got to thinking a lot about how lucky I am to be doing what I set out to do so long ago. If I had taken that job as a video game engineer for EA Sports in San Diego things would have been much different today. I guess it helped that they never actually offered me a job after 3 interviews.

I could have been a videographer for a new action sports video start-up, but my VW camper van broke down on the way to the interview. Then, while at the VW dealership test driving a new Passat wagon so I could "make it to work every day and on time", I realized I wanted to spend my money on a school bus and a boat instead. Now, 8 and a half years later, I'm reliving these life choices and happy about it all.

Since we set up the new WRSC facebook page it has been amazing to see the photos that other people have been posting and tagging.


WRSC in 2004, when we were building the first 12 rooms of the hotel. Its hard to believe that it only used to be a beach house. Its also hard to believe that I live in it and am raising my family here.


This is Sailor Dave, with a skimboard he made for little Jack (who is now 8 years older!). I remember Dave making it, those were good times back in the Playa Coco beach shack before we even opened up in Tamarindo. Sailor Dave sunk his sailboat shortly thereafter and moved on to Nicaragua to train boys how to overthrow the government. He still lives there today, above Playa Madera, though the San Juan del Sur locals call him Crazy Dave instead. Dave was a bro, a sailor, mechanic, boxer, carpenter, and great surfer from San Clemente. He reminds me of the timelessness that surfing has been and always will be. So does this video clip I saw online recently.



I've been reading a lot of Surfer's Journal lately. If you don't subscribe, you should start. Go out and buy a copy, you'll see what I mean. Lots of surf history, recently its been about Tubesteak and George Greenough. I love surfing and I want to do it forever :-)

The WRSC Reservations Office got an email from a guy in La Jolla complaining about the WRSC stickers that were placed around his neighborhood. Larry started a conversation with the guy, explaining that we give out stickers for free, and sorry if it caused any negativity in his life whatsoever. And by the way, how are the La Jolla reefs breaking lately? His response was a copy of the San Diego city codes, showing the $100 fine for every sticker placed in public. This is a guy who took the time to research WRSC on the internet, find out we were in Costa Rica, and contact us about a few stickers he had seen and taken the time to take down. La Jolla is so stuck up you can't even put a "for sale" sign on your house. I grew up only ten minutes away and went to college in La Jolla, and obviously I must have some friends in the area that had some WRSC stickers. Officer Buzz Kill, I'm truly sorry about your bad sticker experience.

Finally I'm feeling a little bit relaxed. Finally things are ironing themselves out, not so much pressure. Swine flu seems like forever ago, but in reality everyone in America decided not to travel because the news said that swine flu would probably get them. Even the Tamarindo Automercado has a section dedicated to swine flu, with masks and gloves, the whole lot. My neighbors with businesses in Tamarindo talk about how slow its been, I say yeah its been slow. The economy sucks anyways, and to top it off you've got the vice president saying that he wouldn't fly on a plane. I think the travel industry will look back on swine flu and say that it had a bigger affect on travel than the 9-11 attacks did. The good thing has been that we've had great waves, and no crowds at all. I always tell myself that no matter if I was tending bar or fixing a van or cleaning the windows of my own hotel, I'm way better off. No cubicle for me. I'd hang myself with my own tie. I would. I just couldn't do it. Especially now, after living down here for so long. I'll find a way to sell coconuts like señor Pipas did. I'm so fortunate to be living with my family on the beach in Costa Rica. it doesn't matter. it all works itself out in the end. Fortunately people realize that swine flu was a passing fad, to be replaced by a pregnant woman in Laos possibly getting the death penalty for smuggling heroin, or the NBA playoffs.

I have to give props to my boy John Cheshire. Check him out this morning when we went surfing:

This is what the outer reefs look like. Which one? I forget. Come down here and we might take you here, or to one of the other 20 places like it that the rest of the surf world hasn't figured out about yet. Here's some more pics that Rafa took:

http://www.witchsrocksurfcamp.com/dailysurfphotos.php

I've been hanging out with Greg Gordon, the owner of CRsurf.com. We surfed the rivermouth today mid-day, tomorrow he and John and I were talking about trucking it down to Nosara or Camaronal for a day session. Yeah, I know its mother's day in the US, but mother's day in Costa Rica is on August 15th. Holly should have ten mother's days as it is, she's the best mom. Should I feel bad for going surfing with my friends instead? Somehow I remember situations like this coming up in my life for as long as I can remember.

I'm worn out. It started when I contracted swine flu a few days ago. The waves were small, so I guess my body decided this would be a good time to feel sick and make me relax enough to recover. Too bad swine flu fever hit the rest of the world, making people not want to travel. When people don't want to travel I have to work harder, not less hard, thank you swine flu. OK so now its agreed upon that swine flu doesn't actually kill any more people than regular flu does. I'm not sure why it became such media hype. Does it have less calories? is it less filling? God who knows.

Today was such an interesting, amazing day. I had the longest barrel of my life today in the Tamarindo Rivermouth. I also saved two lives today.

Yeah, thats right. A great tube ride and saved some lives. #1 the barrel: oh shit, it was deep. I was on my Walden 9'0 longboard, completely slutted out with WRSC and Skullcandy stickers. The swell hit today, the rivermouth looked pretty good. I didn't realize it was bigger, and since I'd been riding the longboard these last few days I took it out. Some bigger sets came in, one wave hit the sandbar just right. I got a little barrel and made it out, started pumping down the line to keep up with it, then it opened up and I saw a sight few get to ever see. The wave was pitching past the front of my board, I was on the tail, charging for no less than 3 seconds before finally getting axed. I didn't care. The view of Tamarindo from that deep in a barrel is religous enough. I could try to explain more but you wouldn't understand. It was just the best, lets leave it at that. #2 as if surfing 3 hours in the AM wasn't enough, a PM session at Casitas with mi amigo John Cheshire was the call. It was just us and my neighbor Joey who owns Casa Bambora, we're surfing, we hear some awful schreeching sound. Joey thinks its a bird, I say it sounds like a woman shrieking, ends up being a woman shreiking. This couple had been trying to swim across the estuary, they got sucked out to sea and were drowning. If we hadn't been there they would have died. We drug them in to the beach. They lived. I figured I got an insane barrel and I saved 2 lives, so anything else that happens today is just a bonus.

Other things?

Somehow I now own a cat.

My wife and I have stupid arguments where I'm the smart ass and she's the one who yells.

You can only kill swine flu with 3 second tube rides.

I had someone stop being my friend on facebook, which kindof felt like being broken up with until I realized that it was nothing like being broken up with and nothing more than office space bullshit to fill free time.

My new intern Elizabeth is the bomb.

I am already preparing for my surf trip to panama even though its 5 weeks away. That reminds me, if you didn't get the WRSC newsletter we're offering a WRSC school bus surf tour down the coast August 15-29, only costs $700/week/person.

I'm so stoked to finally have a tv and dvd player in my bedroom. No more Barney, Mr. Maker, Animal Mechanicals, Lazy Town, Charlie and Lola, or any of that other crap they play on Discovery TV. Its all about Death Race tonight.

buenas noches

a swell is on the way!!

I got the good news that I was being upgraded to first class for my entire flight tomorrow.  I have NO IDEA how this keeps happening and I am not complaining.  Maybe I'm on some list where Continental knows I'm selling flights to Costa Rica like mad and they want to make me happy.  I don't care, I'm just happy.  Thank you Mr. and Mrs. Continental Airlines, much appreciated.

Did you notice the new website?  I'm pretty stoked on it.  Jon Arvizu is the artist behind the rocket/robot madness.  Have you ever wanted to know what the internet looks like?  It looks something like this (at least to me it does).

Bill Homer from EastCoastSurfProducts.com and I are talking about a partnership.  I think its great, as I've already developed an online surf shop for WRSC but I don't have the wharehousing/shipping/time to work with manufacturers in the US to provide all of this for all of you.  Bill solves this.  If I can have bill hook me up with everything for the online shop its going to be great.  Expect a newly improved WRSC website shortly with the e-commerce side included, as well as some integrated twitter feeds for the surf report and the new and very exciting Witch's Rock TV.

Between now and tomorrow morning I've got to buy myself some new internet programming books (nerdy fun), get a haircut because I look homeless, pack my bags, drink the rest of these Sierra Nevadas, skim through 3 weeks of missed emails/facebook messages/lists of things I meant to do but didn't, and catch up on US television programming because I'm not going to see it again for a few months.  

I'm looking forward to returning to Tamarindo to my family, the surf camp, to saying goodbye to our Canadian interns, to saying hello to our good friend John Cheshire, Andrew and Georgia Illig, another south swell hopefully, and some down time to take it all in.  This last week has been nonstop.

By the way, going into an Apple Store here in a US mall makes me feel like there is no recession going on whatsoever.  Its like a mini stock market trading floor in there.  Orange shirts, blue shirts, classes, repairs, tons of overpriced shit that looks really nice and that I wouldn't mind having if someone gave it to me.  I'm about to compare this to the dirt-roadside pulperia where I buy my Bamboo road soda on the way to surf the Negra reefs.  Its like night and day.

heres my neighbor Jerry, I see him in the water all of the time.  I told him the next time I had a good photo of him I'd put it on my blog.  Dude Jerry you're bombing this wave, thats sick!

A couple of the waves at Trestles were this big yesterday.  The swell had traveled up from Costa Rica to California.  Pretty cool how it does that

Hello world.  I really hope your life has been more tranquilo than mine has been this past week. I have been running nonstop.  Seriously, I'm just now having a relaxing moment.  Flew from Liberia to San Diego on Tuesday. Spent all day Wednesday packing boxes and my truck for the container ride to Costa Rica. Thursday at 6am I'm having coffee and driving to Huntington. Didn't surf, should have surfed. BRA surf seminar was good, met some interesting people including the owners of ZJ Boarding House in Santa Monica Mikke and Todd.  Met a guy named John from Reef that lives down the street from where I grew up and we know a lot of the same people.  small world. Learned some insight as to what the major brands are doing.  The seminar theme was about how much the recession is hurting the action sports market and what we can do about it. It appears that the green movement is dying, or at least its too expensive when the world is in a recession unfortunately.  I hope this isn't the case.  This makes me want to continue talks with Patagonia and Sector 9.  Makes me happy I live in Costa Rica where the sun is always shining and the water is warm.  I leave BRA and drive to San Clemente, have dinner with Jeff Kearl from Skullcandy and Mark Woolsey, my new brand manager who really supports my vision for WRSC.  Mark has pulled off some great stuff for Quiksilver, DC Shoes, and ESPN.  Remember when Danny Way jumped the Great Wall of China?  that was Mark Woolsey.  We eat jerk chicken and pale ale, and its good.  I then crash at Jeff's house, where my guest room has dual plasma screens and enough cable channels to confuse me, totally tired so I just slept.  I leave Jeff's house the next morning with a truck full of headphones to hand out to the WRSC crew.  Gary Ward, founder of Ocean Minded, offers me a coffee while I change into my wetsuit in his front lawn.  The guy lives in the private development overlooking Trestles and is a friend of Jeff's.

Jeff and I walk out to overhead bombers coming in at Cotton's.  It took me 3 waves to remember how to surf this board, with this wetsuit, at this crowded Trestles wave.  Then it was on, and I had a couple quite excellent lefts that I'm still replaying en mi cabeza.  Me gusta Trestles.  Me gusta California.  Then I drove to the last day of the BRA seminars (this was yesterday btw), I was late because I was surfing.  They were handing out skateboards, kindof similar to the rip stick but with two wheels on each section instead of just one.  I was the only guy skating during the lunch break, not really sure why because it was fun.  I met a cool guy named Javier from Surf Aid - definitely cool what they are doing over there.  He talked about them coming to Central America next, I told him to look me up.  I left the seminar early and cruised back to north county San Diego and surfed again with Kent at Tamarack Ave.  The waves had size and were punchy, there were a few fun ones.  Kent's wife Kerry made us dinner, I ate more than I was probably supposed to but I was hungry (sorry Kerry).  I had brought some Sierra Nevadas and Blue Moon 22s, we drank them and watched Kent's 500 thousand inch projection screen, where I proceeded to fall asleep on the couch at 830pm.  Today I looked at my email, which scared the shit out of me.  Can I please declare email bankruptcy again?  If you emailed me and I didn't respond you might want to send that out again  :-)  Sorry.  Oh Mr Internet how I love you and hate you at the same time.