laid out. getting old is a bitch
I hurt my back on Wednesday, surfing the South Mission Jetty. The waves were really really good. I was stretching on the beach, I felt a little sore which was strange because I hadn’t surfed in three days. I paddled out and caught 4-5 waves. Each time I felt a little off, until finally the last wave I was sure there was something no bueno with my back. As I got to the beach my …

