Well, at least I learned from my blog the other night that there are a lot of people out there operating on my frequency. I've had a couple of encounters in the last couple of days, in the water, with people I've never seen before despite having lived here for 8 years. Someone drops in on you when you're surfing, there isn't much you can do. Instead of getting upset, hold your breath and count to ten. Let it pass. Like the waves you surf every day, there will be another wave.... it really is going to be OK. Yesterday I got bent out of shape after a 14 year old tico kid dropped in on me and then continued to tell me I wasn't from around here. Hmmm... ok. He wanted to go in to the beach and fight, and I was pretty pissed about the whole deal and thought for a second that I'd love pounding him, but then wait. I'm old enough to be his dad. He must weigh 90 pounds. What the hell? All I really wanted to do was surf. Count to ten. Paddle back out. Forget it ever happened. I think things like this happen for a reason. You must get through the tough situations in surfing, don't give up in any way, and you will then be rewarded by the surf gods. Well... yesterday I had one of those days you might want to forget. Instead of dwelling on it, today we set off on a mission to spend the day surfing and chilling on the beach. Larry , Valerie, Chris, Natalia, myself. Surfing a little known reef, one of dozens along the coast here.... head high swell, offshore winds, cooler with beers, good friends, good times...
Here I was dropping in late and pulling in to the tube.
Here is a photo of Larry. He just got back from San Diego yesterday and already he's getting dialed backside.
Today I just surfed my 6ft Witch's Rock quad fish, having tons of fun doing frontside cutbacks wave after wave. All I did was frontside cutbacks on the fish, it was just the best feeling ever. We surfed for about 5 hours this afternoon, it was really a great day. I'm super stoked to have had such a good day, especially after this past week. Thank you surf gods. Thank you A LOT.
3 comments:
dude
the difference between me and you is that i did get out of the water to fight the 90 pound little shit, and then got a conscience. Now i wish i had kicked Andy Iorns ass.
catch up with you soon. busy as hell.
hahaha
dude sucks to get in squarbles, surfing wasn't meant to be hostile. I just want to give everyone hugs. We just came here to surf, right?... What do you think about Panama 2009?? or Mentawais in August?...
Yo! Chris is still down there? That lucky bastard...surf looked fun. Next time pound on him...sometimes kids need it in order to change.
Post a Comment