Jan 25, 2009

local reefbreak on a Sunday afternoon

video
Here is one of my many rights that peeled across the reef at high tide. We surfed all afternoon long, literally from around 1pm until the sun went down. I think I had about 20 or 30 waves exactly like this one. Fun, open rights that were meant for carving on a retro fish. Thank goodness I happened to bring my retro fish!

There were giant whales further out to sea breaching, giant sprays could be seen as we watched the sun go down. Sea turtles and fish cluttered the reef where we surfed, it was just magical. I was pretty surprised that we were the only gringos out surfing today, but then I remembered that there are so many surf breaks like this one that the rest of the surfing world doesn't even know exists. I am constantly reminded why I decided to move here, I'd consider today one of those days :-)

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