tired rambling response

I'm worn out. It started when I contracted swine flu a few days ago. The waves were small, so I guess my body decided this would be a good time to feel sick and make me relax enough to recover. Too bad swine flu fever hit the rest of the world, making people not want to travel. When people don't want to travel I have to work harder, not less hard, thank you swine flu. OK so now its agreed upon that swine flu doesn't actually kill any more people than regular flu does. I'm not sure why it became such media hype. Does it have less calories? is it less filling? God who knows.

Today was such an interesting, amazing day. I had the longest barrel of my life today in the Tamarindo Rivermouth. I also saved two lives today.

Yeah, thats right. A great tube ride and saved some lives. #1 the barrel: oh shit, it was deep. I was on my Walden 9'0 longboard, completely slutted out with WRSC and Skullcandy stickers. The swell hit today, the rivermouth looked pretty good. I didn't realize it was bigger, and since I'd been riding the longboard these last few days I took it out. Some bigger sets came in, one wave hit the sandbar just right. I got a little barrel and made it out, started pumping down the line to keep up with it, then it opened up and I saw a sight few get to ever see. The wave was pitching past the front of my board, I was on the tail, charging for no less than 3 seconds before finally getting axed. I didn't care. The view of Tamarindo from that deep in a barrel is religous enough. I could try to explain more but you wouldn't understand. It was just the best, lets leave it at that. #2 as if surfing 3 hours in the AM wasn't enough, a PM session at Casitas with mi amigo John Cheshire was the call. It was just us and my neighbor Joey who owns Casa Bambora, we're surfing, we hear some awful schreeching sound. Joey thinks its a bird, I say it sounds like a woman shrieking, ends up being a woman shreiking. This couple had been trying to swim across the estuary, they got sucked out to sea and were drowning. If we hadn't been there they would have died. We drug them in to the beach. They lived. I figured I got an insane barrel and I saved 2 lives, so anything else that happens today is just a bonus.

Other things?

Somehow I now own a cat.

My wife and I have stupid arguments where I'm the smart ass and she's the one who yells.

You can only kill swine flu with 3 second tube rides.

I had someone stop being my friend on facebook, which kindof felt like being broken up with until I realized that it was nothing like being broken up with and nothing more than office space bullshit to fill free time.

My new intern Elizabeth is the bomb.

I am already preparing for my surf trip to panama even though its 5 weeks away. That reminds me, if you didn't get the WRSC newsletter we're offering a WRSC school bus surf tour down the coast August 15-29, only costs $700/week/person.

I'm so stoked to finally have a tv and dvd player in my bedroom. No more Barney, Mr. Maker, Animal Mechanicals, Lazy Town, Charlie and Lola, or any of that other crap they play on Discovery TV. Its all about Death Race tonight.

buenas noches