It had been a long time since I’d ridden a longboard much. When I was younger I rode a longboard all of the time, but in recent years I progressed to a shorter board and forgotten the log. At times I would ride the pink Walden 9’0, sitting in the rental cage, repaired 101 times, with a glassed on (at an angle) fin, somehow riding better than most any other board in the WRSC quiver… it wasn’t until RA made me a new 9’0 longboard three weeks ago that my surfing world evolved to include the longboard as a go-to board in my own quiver.

Let me pontificate about this board. It has a scooped out nose, super wide and full, fully able to keep me hanging toes over the nose for what seems like forever. Although the board is quite thick, with full rails until they sharpen along the tail, it forces me to take an old-school approach to my surfing. Long, drawn out bottom turns. Sweeping cutbacks from the shoulder into the foam and back out again. Stability while puling into the lucky tube section. I appreciate all of that. I have experienced rides in recent days that are etched in my memory, making me smile. This is what surfing is all about.